Category Archives: Bow Building

13 Important Characteristics of Antler That Every Bowyer Must know.

The Antler Series Part 1

Deer antler is a material which has been used by man in primitive arts and crafts for many thousands of years. In fact, deer antler has been used both as a raw material, and as a tool, to make all kinds of primitive artefacts.

Deer antler is a versatile material. It has qualities which lend itself to promoting its use in the construction of tools and equipment. And as far as primitive archery equipment is concerned, antler adds both functionality and aesthetics to bows, arrows and many other associated items.

Personally, I love using deer antler as a natural material for building primitive archery equipment. And by using an authentic raw material such as antler, we primitive crafters are very much in keeping with tradition.

Deer antler presents an element of symbolism too. Antler is a well-recognised representation of nature. Deer are truly wild and majestic creatures, honoured throughout time, and respected by hunters the world over.

It is certainly fair to say that our primitive archery ancestors (as well as many contemporary archery hunters for that matter) pursued deer as a prized and challenging target species. It therefore seems appropriate to adorn a primitive bow (or even a modern traditional bow) with a functionality promoting, and decorative material sourced from one of the very creatures which inspired man’s most notable primitive hunting innovation – archery.

But before you race out to incorporate deer antler into your next primitive archery build, there are some things you must first consider. As with all materials, deer antler has some pros and some cons. Before committing to using antler as your material of choice, first you should be aware of what antler does well and what is does not do well.

This article discusses 13 things you should first know before embarking on a project using deer antler. First, we will discuss the upsides!

Pros:

1 – Antler is easy to source: Deer antler is easily available. It can be readily purchased in pet shops as dog chews, and it can also be bought online and at game/countryside fairs etc. Ebay has any amount of deer antler available throughout the year so getting hold of some should not be a challenge. I also stock and sell a wide variety of different sizes, shapes and colours of antler so if you’re in the UK, give me a shout via the contacts page if you would like to discuss your antler needs with me.

2 – Antler is easily worked with wood working tools: Deer antler is soft enough to be worked with high carbon tool steel, which is what most rasps, files and saws are made from. Common abrasives such as sandpaper, wire wool etc also work well as a means to finish antler. This means that you won’t need to buy extra tools, materials or equipment to work with antler. You will find that you will get by perfectly well using many of the tools that you already have for general woodworking. The only exceptions being bladed tools such as knifes, chisels drawknives and axes which will dull very quickly if used on antler.

Most saws, files and rasps as well as most abrasives work well on antler.

3 – Antler is aesthetically pleasing: I think deer antler is beautiful. It’s just plain nice to look at. It also has that wild rustic appeal to it which aids in generating the character that primitive bows are renowned for.

The contrast in colour between the browns and creams of the antler stand out from typical wood colours making it an ideal decoration for bows. Wooden bow tip and riser overlays made from deer antler look amazing!

Red Deer Antler used as a tip overlay on a sinew backed yew character recurve.

4 – Antler is hard enough to avoid string wear: Antler is harder than wood and therefore does not suffer from bow string wear. This is another reason why deer antler makes a great material to make bow tip overlays from. For the same reason, antler also makes for a good choice as an arrow rest or as a material for an inlayed arrow pass.

The coronet of this roe deer antler is about 1″ 1/2 in diameter. Note how it is the perfect size and shape to make an arrow rest which could be shaped and glued onto the handle of a primitive bow.

5 – Antler works well with most glue: Antler is usually added to a work piece with a glue being used as the binding agent. Antler can be stuck to other natural material such as wood and sinew very easily using regular wood glue, epoxy and superglue. My favourite glue to bond antler to wood and sinew is Titebond III.

This antler tip overlay is being glued on to a maple longbow tip with Titebond III, which creates a super strong bond between antler and wood or sinew.

6 – Antler is weakly porous: There have been times when I have wanted to stain a bow which has antler components built into the design, but I’ve not wanted the antler parts to take on the stain intended to alter the colour of the adjacent wood. Finely sanded and polished antler is only very weakly porous. This means that it does not readily take up a stain into its surface. This makes it easy to remove stain from polished antler. If I get stain on a tip overlay for example, I simply wipe the stain off with some kitchen towel dipped into acetone. This will bring the antler right back to its natural colour state.

Elm longbow stained dark Jacobean. Whilst the stain penetrates the wood, it is easily wiped off the antler tip overlays, which allows the antler to remain light in colour preserving its ability to contrast against the darkened wood.

7 – Antler is strong in compression: Tribes from various parts of the world have used antler as the main structure of their bows for millennia. These bows were either backed with a heavy sinew application or they were supported in tension with sinew cabling. Our ancestors knew that the compression strength of antler was effective at creating an efficient and effective bow belly.

Cons:

8 – Antler can be expensive to buy: Depending on where you source it, it can be costly to stock up on some decent antler. I frequently see antler being offered for sale in pet shops and on the internet for silly money. Ebay will likely be the cheapest place to buy antler. Country fairs often have buckets full of antler on sale priced per piece for reasonable prices too.

If you have a particular use in mind for a piece of antler, then you really should lay your hands on a few different bits first so that you can be sure that the bit you choose will serve the intended purpose before you part with your cash. At least a bucket full of antler gives you a chance to pick out the bit that suits your purpose best.

I sell premium quality antler on a piece-by-piece basis for a very reasonable price. If you would like to buy some then contact me through my contact page to discuss your particular requirements.

9- Antler can vary considerably in its appearance from one piece to the next: The external structure of the antler, in combination with the vegetation type of the area inhabited by the deer, dictates the colour of the antler. This is why some antler is darker than other pieces, especially when antler is compared to other antler belonging to animals which live in completely different areas.

The time of year which the antler departed from the deer will also influence the amount of staining and subsequently, the colour of the antler. Male deer grow a new set of antlers each year. This new antler growth occurs under a thin membranous tissue called velvet. Once their antlers are fully grown the velvet covering dies. As the dying velvet peels away from the hard antler beneath, the exposed antler is white in colour with a structure and appearance of bone.

As the season progresses the deer clean off the rest of this dead velvet by “fraying” their antlers against vegetation in their surrounding area. This “fraying” activity is what colours up their antlers. If male deer didn’t fray vegetation, then their antlers would stay white.

The dark brown colour that you see on antlers is from the sap and dirt from countless fraying sessions. So, with this is mind, the vegetation type in the locality of the deer will influence the colour and the darkness of deer antler. And if a piece of antler was removed from a deer shortly after cleaning of its velvet, then the antler may not have had much time to be coloured up through fraying.

Antlers acquired early in the season will be much lighter in colour than antlers taken from deer late in the season. Especially after the rutting period which is when deer spend vast amounts of time scrapping their antlers against anything and everything!

2-year-old Red Stag antler from a stag taken in late Autumn. This antler is nice and dark due to plenty of fraying of local vegetation. If this stag had been shot in late summer, it would be much lighter in colour. This antler would produce sections of its main beam which are perfect for bow handle/fade veneers.
Yearling Red Deer stag spike. The beautiful “pearling” at the base of this antler spike will lend itself perfectly to making a very attractive antler tip overlay or arrow rest/inlayed arrow pass.

10 – Not all parts of the antler can be useful for certain jobs: The appearance and usability of a piece of antler will depend to a large extent on the species of deer which it came from and the age of that animal. Remember that male deer grow a brand-new set of antlers each year. A young male deer will only grow a small set of antlers for the first couple of years of its life. Older animals will generally have larger antlers up until a deer gets too old in which case their antlers begin to reduce in size with each passing year. This old aging process is referred to as “going back”. Big antler therefore comes from mature but not old male deer.

If you take an antler and saw it in half lengthways, you will notice that the main beam was significantly honeycombed on the inside. Back down towards the coronets however is far more solid.

The honeycombed section is no good for tip overlays or arrow rests as the porous parts are much weaker than the solid parts. These porous areas will crush under compression. If you are planning on making your bow tip overlays or arrow rest from antler, then use the solid section down at the very bottom of the antler by the coronet.

Antler coronets (bottom end) – note how this section is solid looking.
Sections cut from the rest of the antler. Note the weak honeycomb centre.

11- Antler does not take up stains/colours well: If you actually wanted to stain your antler a darker or different colour, then you will find that most regular stains will not impart and significant change to the appearance of antler. The outside of antler is not permeable so will not allow a stain to soak in deep enough to have any real affect. Anything that you apply to antler will merely remain on the surface so will likely wipe off if you apply a solvent type of sealer to finish your project.

12- Antler is weak in tension: Antler will break when exposed to tension forces unless it is supported by a strongly elastic material like sinew. This is why bows with limbs made from antler were backed with sinew, either glued on in layers as is conventionally done, or by supporting the back of the bow with sinew cabling as done by the likes of Eskimo and Inuit people.

13- Poor flexibility can make antler behave brittle: Don’t expect antler to bend much on its own. Bending forces along the tension plane can cause antler to snap, especially if the solid outer surface of the antler has been compromised through working with tools.

A classic example of this tendency to break is sometimes witnessed on bow tip overlays. The break happens where the string groove has been filed into the overlay and the usual cause of the break is a heavy impact on the tip of the overlay caused by a bow being dropped.

Another cause of tip overlays breaking at the string groove is as a result of using overlays which are very long and are fixed to a working section of the bow limb tip. The bending of the tip presents a bending force to the overlay which results in a break at the weakest point which is always at the string groove. Static tips prevent this issue.

String groves are weak points on antler tip overlays. Make sure the bow tip under the overlay is not a working part of the limb else the overlay will break at the string groove when the bow is flexed.

So, there you have it. Now that you are aware of some of the main benefits and pitfalls of using deer antler, see if it’s time to incorporated antler into your next primitive archery project!

Until next time!

11 Steps to Making Your Own High Quality Sinew Glue

The Sinew Series Part 3 – Sinew Glue

In the previous two Sinew Series articles we went through the various processes of sourcing, extracting, drying and processing deer leg tendon into usable sinew material which you can use for your next primitive archery project. If you haven’t yet read these previous two articles, then you can find them here:

Sinew Series Part 1: https://southmoorbows.com/the-sinew-series-part-1/

Sinew Series Part 2: https://southmoorbows.com/the-sinew-series-part-2/

If you have followed along through these first two articles, then by now you will have a nice pile of perfectly prepared sinew material which will be pleading with you to find a permanent home for it!

If your intention was to use your sinew for making cordage/bow strings etc then you might need to wait until the next article where I will cover making strings from leg sinew. If, however, your intended use for your carefully processed sinew is to back a bow then you will next need some hide glue, or better still, sinew glue.

In this article I will show you how I make my own sinew glue.

I’ve messed about with “animal glues” for several years only to conclude that simple sinew glue is strong enough, flexible enough and easy enough to make for it to be my go-to adhesive for many primitive crafting projects. It’s a good all-round glue for sticking things to wood, including sinew.

Sinew glue is also great for sticking down leather, rawhide, fletchings, wrappings, points etc although I think that pitch is a better option for arrow construction for reasons which we will discuss in a moment.

I’ve personally never tried to use sinew glue for bone/horn/antler tip overlays etc so I don’t know how well it would bond to these semi porous materials however I’m sure it would probably work well enough, as long as the glue joint was kept dry and away from high humidity.

On the subject of moisture, we should discuss the weaknesses of sinew glue before trying to use it for everything. Moister is the enemy of all animal glues, including sinew glue. I can’t imagine sinew glue, or any other type of animal glue, having much application in a very wet or humid climate unless the exposed sinew glue has been very well sealed from moisture.

The downside to sinew glue, and all animal glues for that matter, is that they are very water soluble. Unlike pitch, without some kind of water proofing, all animal glues will begin to dissolve if exposed to water or even just high humidity.

Making any animal glue also requires a bit of time and effort, however it is not at all difficult to make, and the time factor is mostly as a consequence of the cooking process which requires minimal input once cooking commences.

Nowadays I only really use sinew glue for sinew backing and for that purpose it is excellent. I seal all of my backed bows and keep my bows in an indoor environment which has very consistent temperature and humidity so I never have to worry about moister ingress damaging any bonding achieved through the use of sinew glue.

Many primitive bowyers report better shrinking and subsequent reflexing of sinew backed bows when sinew is bound to the back of a bow with sinew glue rather than hide glue. Personally, I haven’t experienced much difference between hide glue and sinew glue in this regard.

The main reason I tend to use sinew glue over hide glue is that I’ve always had a surplus of sinew scraps and sinew rich tendon sheaths at my disposal. Since after processing out all my sinew I end up with all this scrap material anyway, I might as well make use of it and make it into sinew glue.

One thing I will say is that the purest, cleanest and possibly strongest sinew glue is made from pure clean sinew minus all the chaff and connective tissues which often ends up in the pile of sinew scraps. All this none sinew chaff gets created when the pounding and splitting of dried tendons take place.

Tendon sheaths also contain a lot of fasciae and other none sinew connective tissues too. Some of this none sinew material contains little to no collagen so will provide no real benefit to your glue. It is the collagen content that makes sinew and hide glue a strong, flexible adhesive.

As with hide glue, the less fascia/connective tissue/muscle tissue that ends up in the sinew glue the better the purity and corresponding quality of the final glue product. All that said though, for our purposes, small amounts of contamination don’t appear to reduce the strength of the final product by much. So don’t be afraid to cook up your scrap tendon sheaths whole. I’ve never noticed any measurable reduction in a glues performance even when I’ve known the glue to be full of impurities.

Dried deer leg tendon sheaths make great sinew glue.

Hide glue is a great alternative to sinew glue and the making process is essentially the same. The only thing to consider is that the raw hide which is required to make hide glue requires processing first. Making rawhide is a lot of work, whereas sinew glue can be made from all the sinew scraps and tendon sheaths.

If I’ve been processing a pile of sinew to back a bow, then I will have already created a bunch of tendon sheaths and sinew scraps as a by-product of all the tendon processing. Which I’m going to be doing anyway hence the need for a backing glue in the first place!

So on with the program, let’s make some sinew glue. First you will need the following materials/equipment:

  • 2 0z of dry sinew scraps or a dozen dry/raw tendon sheaths (see sinew part 1 article).
  • A slow cooker/crock pot with a low setting (approx. 85- 90℃)
  • One litre of water.
  • Tubs/jars for glue storage.
  • A dehydrator (optional).
  • A blender/coffee grinder (optional).

Step one:

Place your dry or raw sinew scraps/tendon sheaths and the water into your slow cooker/crock-pot. Make sure that the temperature which you set your slow cooker to is less than a simmer. If the sinew is boiled, then the collagen proteins, which give sinew glue its strength, will break down reducing the strength of the glue considerably.

A small amount of very gentle bubbling around the edges of you cooking pot is fine but a simmer is definitely not. A rolling boil will completely destroy your glue so be warned!

Approx 12 deer feet produced this much tendon sheath.

Step two:

Let the sinew slowly and gently stew for at least 12 hours. I don’t time mine, but I do leave it cooking at least overnight. I leave my slow cooker out in the garage as the smell of slow cooked sinews are not to everyone’s liking!

I use a small slow cooker. The low setting keeps the contents below a simmer which is perfect.

Step three:

First thing in the morning, lift the lid on your sinew stew and check the water isn’t simmering. If all looks good take a pair of scissors and snip your sinew scraps/tendon sheaths up as small as you can manage. This should be easy now that the sinew has had chance to cook the tendon sheaths down to a tender state. Cutting your sinew up will expose even more of the sinew’s surface area to the hot water further extracting the sinew’s collagen out into the cooking water.

Once you’ve snipped up your sinew nice and fine replace the lid and continue cooking for another three or four hours. Longer will be fine if you accidently forget about it!

Tendon sheaths all snipped up ready for a bit more cooking time.

Step Four:

Once your tendon sheaths/sinew scraps have had at least 12 hours of cooking, turn the cooker off and allow the sinew stew to cool for half an hour with the lid on. Your sinew stew should stay warm enough to move on to the next step but if you’ve left it too long and the mixture has gelled then simply warm it up enough to turn the mixture back into a liquid form. (Careful not to let it reach a simmer or worse still a boil!)

Step Five:

Your sinew stew should have a viscosity which is something like warm syrup. If it is very watery then it will likely need reducing a bit. This can be done by continuing with the cooking process with the cooker lid removed. It can also be done by drying the gelled liquid at a later stage. We will cover this later.

Place a metal sieve/colander over the top of a bowl and place both items in you sink. Pour the sinew stew into the sieve/colander and let the stew juice pour through into the bowl below. Remove the sieve/colander and dispose of all the bits which the sieve/colander has caught.

Pouring the juice through a colander to separate out the tendon sheaths.
I find a good squashing with a potato masher helps force some of the juice out.

Step six:

Now you will have a bowl full of relatively clean translucent light brown liquid. If it looks clouded up with tiny particles, then you could pass the liquid through a fine sieve or a muslin cloth to remove the last few bits of gunk.

Still looks a bit bitty!
I would typically expect one of these takeaway type tubes to be more than enough glue for a complete sinew backing project.

Step Seven:

Now test the gelling quality of your glue. If your glue gels well then it will make a good, strong and flexible glue. To test the gelling quality of you glue, take a teaspoon full of your glue and drip it onto a cold clean plate to form a small puddle of glue. Leave it at room temperature for ten minutes. After ten minutes, test how well your glue has gelled by pushing your fingertip into the edge of the glue puddle you made. If the viscosity of your glue has stayed the same then, ask yourself if the room temperature might be a little too warm to let the glue gel up.

If you feel that the ambient temperature is perhaps too hot to allow the glue to gel up, then place the plate into your refrigerator for another ten minutes then try the same procedure again. If your glue has now started to set up into a gel and can be pushed up into a ridge of jelly, then your glue is good.

Test the gelling quality of your sinew glue. Pour a spoon full of your glue onto a cold plate and leave for ten minutes.
After 10 mins try pushing up the edges of your glue puddle. If it has gelled up all is good.

Step Eight:

If your glue is gelling up fine, then the next job is to arrange your glue for storage. Pour your still warm liquid glue into a large enough tub, bowl or tray and leave to set into a gel. You may place it in your refrigerator if it is a hot day.

Once your glue has set up into a gel you can either freeze it if you’re planning on using it soon or you can dry it down to a solid form which can be rehydrated when needed at a later date.

This batch of glue has gelled up completely after leaving for an hour at a room temperature of 20℃

Step nine:

If you wish you dry your glue into a solid form for long term storage then take one of your trays of gelled glue and cut all the gel up into small cubes.

Spread the cubes out on a large tray and allow to air dry in a clean and airy location. This can take a few days depending on drying conditions however if you have access to a dehydrator then you can speed the process up by placing the gel cubes into shallow impermeable trays and drying them in a dehydrator set to the very lowest temperature setting.

Remember that heat will revert gelled glue back to a liquid so make sure that the tray which the gel is placed into is not likely to leak your liquid glue out into the inside of your dehydrator. With my dehydrator set at 38℃/100℉ I can get my gelled glue down to a thin sheet of solid glue in about 12-16 hours.

Step Ten:

Once your glue is in a solid form then you can store it like this, or you can take it one step further and break the sheet of dry glue up into pieces which you can then grind down into a powder using a blender or a coffee grinder.

I store my glue powder in glass jars kept in a cool dark place. Keeping the glue powder in glass jars keeps the contents from being eaten by rodents and insects, both of which will dine on your hard work with glee!

Be warned, rodents will also make a meal of your sinew and raw hide too so always keep these materials away from hungry critters. And by critters I also mean dogs!

Step Eleven:

To rehydrate your glue simply add enough glue powder to half a litre of hot water to re-create a viscosity which is akin to that of warm syrup. By “hot water” I mean at about the temperature which you can just about put your fingers into without getting burnt. Hot but not too hot!

Simply place two or three dessert spoons of your glue powder into your hot water and mix thoroughly.

Remember, you’re aiming for a consistency of warm syrup before application. If your glue is still too thick and you’re sure that your water is hot enough, then add more hot water. If your glue is too thin, then add more glue powder. If you do not have more glue powder, then you will have to slowly reduce the water content by warming your glue over a low heat until the viscosity looks right.

Just a quick note on working with all animal glues including sinew glue. If you are embarking on a gluing up project which might take a fair while to complete such as sinew backing a bow, you will need to keep your glue at a temperature of around 40-50℃ throughout the whole process. If you don’t keep your glue warm, then it will start to set up into a gel again. I keep my glue in a liquid state by placing my liquid glue in a shallow metal tray which I place on top of my oven’s plate warmer. This keeps my glue at the perfect temperature for application.

So there you are. Go and give sinew glue a try. If you only have raw hide at your disposal then follow the exact same procedure with good clean rawhide instead of sinew and you will produce very high quality glue fit for many of the purposes useful to a primitive archer.

Alternatively, if you can’t be bothered with making glue but want to get your hands on some ready-made glue then I do sell jars of dehydrated sinew glue powder. Give me a shout via the contact page if you’d like to buy some. I also sell by weight, dried red deer leg tendons which you can be processed into sinew. I also sell dried leg tendon sheaths for glue making if you wish to give glue making a go from scratch.

Keep your eyes open for one of my next articles where I will go into detail and explain how to go about taking your dried, processed sinew and your glue and backing a bow to produce the original primitive composite bow!

Until next time!