Tag Archives: Elm

Elm HLD Heat Treated Rawhide Backed Longbow 58#@28″ (Bow No. 11)

This bow came from a nice clean, straight, undamaged English Elm stave which I cut back in the winter. I roughed it out green and clamped it to a slightly reflexed form to force dry it over the wood burner for a week. I then took the roughed out stave off the form and left it hanging up in the ceiling above the wood burner for a month to dry to the point of no further weight loss.

Once the stave was good and dry I chose a shape and profile (HLD pyramidal longbow with static tips) which suited the length and width of the stave (6ft X 3”). I then cleaned it up close to final dimensions and then floor tillered it. The shape looked good so I continued to tiller to brace then carried on down to 22”. I was gunning for a nice positive elliptical tiller and a final draw weight in the upper 50s as this bow was for someone who wanted a nice clean, simple, hunting weight primitive longbow.

All looked good except for a little bit of propeller twist which was making its presence known, so I opted to straighten that out whilst heat treating the slightly dug out belly. So after fixing the stave to the form again and using clamps to pull out the propeller twist I set to cooking the belly.

Half an hour with the blow torch got the belly nice and dark but without any cracks. I’ve learned over the years that properly dried whitewood staves wont check as easily when heat treated as those which are still holding 10% or more moisture. This stave was down to about 6% moisture content so I could get away with using the heavy heat application which comes with using a blow torch to heat treat the belly of a bow. Give it a try and you’ll see what I mean.

After a day to cool and reacclimatise, I checked the tiller again. The heat treating had banged on some weight and gotten rid of the propeller twist nicely. The stave was now holding about an inch and a half of reflex too. After tillering down to 26” I was getting 63ish lbs so I decided to shoot in the last 2 inches and see if the positive tiller would stick.

A few days slinging stump heads in the woods gave me chance to really shoot her in. All looked good however the tiller was now looking a bit too neutral and since this bow is symmetrical and the guy this bow is going to shoots split fingers, I opted to take some more wood off the top limb to regain that positive tiller.

With everything looking nice, I set about rawhide backing this bow to add some extra durability. As much as I love self bows, the simple reality is that one ding in the wrong place, (especially on the back and sides, or worse still back corners) and a bow could easily be compromised. I like the protection that properly made and fitted deer rawhide gives to the back of a stave bow.

I back many of the bows which are going to end up in the hands of other people as I know how rough others can be with bows. On this particular bow I opted to use some really nice thin wild red deer rawhide which I produce from deer that I’ve hunted over the winter. I process this rawhide the traditional way which ensures that it remains good and thin but incredibly strong. I sell this rawhide for a very reasonable price in my ETSY shop: Southmoorbows – Etsy UK. You can buy it here: One Matching Pair of Wild Deer Rawhide Strips – Etsy UK

After a couple of days for the titebond III and rawhide to dry thoroughly, I set about trimming the rawhide and fitting some really nice Red Deer antler tip overlay (which you can buy here: Wild English Red Deer Antler Whole Coronets 3.5 Long – Etsy UK)

After sanding the whole bow down and polishing her up with wire wool, I stained the wood with an alcohol based black wood stain. The rawhide got treated to a coat of leather dye which once dry was wire wool scrubbed in the mid limb section to give it an aged and worn appearance.

All the final scrapping and sanding to finish brought the weigh down to 59lbs at 28”. A further few shooting in sessions saw the weight settle in to 58lb at 28”. This was about perfect.

On went a piece of my own home produced, lovely, thick wild red deer neck rawhide for a handle covering (which you can buy here: 5 X 6 Wild Red Deer Rawhide Piece 0.4 1mm Thick – Etsy UK). This rawhide handle covering got a coat of leather stain too. The handle and the bow itself were then both treated to half a dozen coats of tung oil over the next couple of weeks to seal her up good and tight.

Whilst this bow is a bit on the heavy side for me personally, the guy who received this bow loved it. It is indeed a punchy bow with no noticeable hand shock, and very quiet too. It would make a really great hunting bow.

Here are the stats and pics. Hope you like!

Mass: 678 grams

Length NTN: 67”

Width: 1 7/8” at widest

Tips: 5” static 3/8” wide

Back: Marginally crowned with minimal undulation. Face profile pyramidal.

Belly Profile: Working limb sections concaved to mirror back, transitioning at the tips to triangular cross section.

Tiller: Elliptical 1/8” positive.

Draw Weight: 58lbs at 28”

5 X 6 Wild Red Deer Rawhide Piece 0.4 1mm Thick – Etsy UK

Wild English Red Deer Antler Whole Coronets 3.5 Long – Etsy UK

One Matching Pair of Wild Deer Rawhide Strips – Etsy UK

1 X Pair of Beaver Fur Bow String Silencers beaver – Etsy UK

Elm Sucker Character Flatbow 40lbs @ 28” (Bow no. 9)

I was given a 3” elm pole by a mate of mine who coppiced a butch of the stuff in one of his hedgerows last year. Many of the poles/logs were around the 3-5” mark so I asked him to save the better stems in his barn so I could pick through them at some point. Many of the stems had been attacked by the beetle and were unusable, which was a real shame because some of the stems would have been perfectly good bow staves had it not been for all the damage below the bark.

In this part of the world we are cursed with Dutch elm disease. It really is quite rare to find an elm stave which doesn’t have any damage at all. I have tried making character elm bows out of badly beetle damaged elm before, but have concluded that the weakness induced by the fungal pathogen will invariably lead to a broken bow at some point in the future.

One or two small spots of black rot tends to be ok though, so the stave which made this bow was given a chance to prove itself, as I really liked the slight wiggle and snake this stave reflected after roughing out. In addition to the tiny bit of beetle damage, I had to negotiate a few other features too, such as knots, drying checks and some propeller twist which came out pretty easily witha little dry heat.

Given the undulating back of this stave I decided to try and mimic the topography of the back on the belly, but in reverse of corse. This created a slightly hollow and varied contour to the bulk of the bows belly. I also opted for a slightly hollow belly in order to maximise the potential for removing some of the beetle damage which was apparent on the belly of the bottom limb.

In order to get the worst of the beetle damage out of the stave I ended up with quite thin limbs, both in terms of width and thickness. As a consequence I ended up with a bow which is a bit on the light side, finishing out at about 42lbs after the initial shooting in phase. Since sanding and finishing the bow, plus a lot more shooting in, she has now settled into about 40# @ 28”. Not too bad for a pretty gnarly elm stick!

I know a lot of trad archery folk hate arrow shelves but I’m not one of them. I like an arrow shelf simple because I can shoot arrows with feathers without having to wrap the fronts of the fletching in order to prevent a quill winding up embedded in my hand.

As much as I like shooting my own primitive arrows with feather fletchings wrapped with sinew, I do find that the raised sinew wrapping can sometimes cause a bit of deflection when it makes contact with the arrow pass or arrow shelf. I often see this deflexion manifest as a false nock left. Or if shooting of a shelf, a false nock high and left.

In addition to an arrow shelf I went to the effort of putting tip overlays on her. If you read my previous post you will have seen that I have recently come across a really nice and very old yew log which has been exposed to the elements in a dead state whilst still being attached to a huge and very old yew tree.

This exposure to the elements has resulted in the sap wood completely rotting off the log leaving pure yew heartwood behind. On closer inspection this heartwood was encapsulated in a 1/8^th inch thick layer of dark, hard and perfectly preserved resin saturated timber. This resinous outer coating is hard like oak. It is impossible to mark it with a finger nail (unlike normal yew heart wood) so I decided to try making tip overlays with it, with a view to making sure that the overlay was situated so that this really hard and wear resistance outer layer would be the surface which the bow string would contact with. My idea worked very well and the overlays look lovely contrasting sharply against the light coloured elm sapwood. I’ll certainly use this petrified yew log to produce other overlays in the future.

The handle wound up being a deeply contoured grip style which would have made it quite difficult to wrap a piece of tanned leather around so I opted for a piece of roe deer raw hide which I made myself recently. (Article to come shortly.) I stained it with some leather stain since it was quite bland looking. It looks all right and almost kinda marbled. And despite it being paper thin, it feels really nice and durable. I expect it will outlive the bow by a mile!

This bow was finished with 8 coats of truoil and has stood up well to a fair bit of shooting. I’ve matched it up to a set of handmade 35# 400 grain bamboo arrows, fletched with turkey wing feathers and tipped with modified empty bullet cases for stump heads. These arrows shoot very well and over the chrono I got an average speed of 142ft/sec.

It never ceases to amaze me how tough bamboo arrows are. Despite being shot dozens of times at all sorts of stuff all three arrows are still going strong!! I intend to do a detailed arrow build at some point so keep an eye out for that article coming at some point this year. I’m also working on a pile of new bows which I hope to show off soon.

Anyways, here are the pics! Hope you like!!

Bow No. 3 – Elm Deflex Reflex Selfbow Flatbow 48#@26”

I built this bow from a totally green 4” diameter English Elm log which came my way back in the spring of 2022. The bark slipped off perfectly which was good in that it was easy to remove, but meant that the bow finished out lacking the wonderful cambium camo effect which I absolutely love to see on white wood selfbows.

As with most Elm logs above 3” in diameter, this log had some beetle damage which resulted in this log only producing one stave in the end. This was a shame as the log was clean, straight and carrying little twist. If it wasn’t for the beetle damage then I’d have got two nice staves from this log.

The damage free stave was slightly reflexed in the handle area but had a nice straight face profile with tips almost in alignment with the handle centre. After recurving I chose the top limb so that the string would favour the left side of the riser section since I’m a righty. I laid out the staves with symmetrical limbs and a handle section which would accommodate a 4” grip with 3” fades.

Both limb sections had a tiny amount of deflex mid limb so I could see the potential for a deflex reflex riser/limb profile. Since the stave was 66”, long I laid out the bow to finish 64” nock to nock. This is ample length to safely accommodate light recurves on a nice and wide limbed Elm flatbow.

I planned to finish with a solid and safe selfbow around 50lb at 26”. Flicking the tips on a bow this length shouldn’t stress the limbs, but as a back up against chrysling the belly, I kept the limbs around 1” 7/8ths wide for the first 2 thirds tapering rapidly down to ½” wide static flicked tips in the final thirds of the limb.

This staves back had some crowning to it but not really enough to warrant hollowing out the belly although in hind sight I probably should have. That said the flat belly/low crown cross section profile appears to have retained adequate compression strength and has withstood any fretting, even after much shooting with a held anchor. The deflex/reflex profile probably helped here too and certainly made the tillering process easy. The draw of this bow is also very smooth with very little stack.

This stave was simple and quick to tiller given the very even natural profile and in no time I was left with a snappy, low volume, low mass flatbow (570 grams) which is very pointable and is an absolute pleasure to shoot. Brace height is 5 1/2” and the tiller is 1/8” positive. This is one of those bows which when braced plays a note with one of those wonderful high frequency resonances when the string is plucked. Dinnnnnnnnnng!

I could have produced a heavier draw weight from this stave but I like bows around the 50lb mark at my draw length of 26” so I aimed for that and got it. There is no hand shock since the tips are low in mass and the grip is very comfortable to hold with a loose grip. The bow shoots hard at 26” and shooting a 9gn/lb arrow (450gn) over the chronograph produced average speeds around 156ft/sec.

The stave was fairly plain with no wiggle to speak of. Nor were there many significant quirks like knots etc so I decided to stain the bow so as to draw out the main feature which was the beautiful grain on the belly. A contoured grip and arrow shelf made a bit more of a feature out of the handle section and antler tip overlays helped to pimp up the limb tips a bit.

The arrow rest is not cut to centre but the paradox isn’t a problem anyway. An arrow in the 45-50lb spine range shoots well in this bow.

The handle received a light tan leather covering which was also used in reverse to serve the arrow pass. The stain is an oil based Dark Oak colour finished with many coats of truoil.

Here are the Pics. Enjoy!: